Mt. Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 feet), the lower western peak is 5,563 metres (18,251 ft). Ama Dablam means "Mother and Pearl Necklace" (the perennial hanging glacier is thought of as the pearl). For several days, Ama Dablam will dominate the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest.

Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961 by Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward and Wally Romanes.

The normal climbing route is via the southwest ridge (right skyline in the photo). Climbers will typically set up three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier (Dablam). Any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes left, away from the camp. However, a 2006 avalanche (see below) proved otherwise. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April-May (before the monsoon) and September-October.

 

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