Chulu West Peak

The North-East Ridge is considered the normal route to climb this peak from a Base Camp on the moranis at 5334m (17500ft). Most climbers make it to the top and back from Base Camp in one long day although some have, in the past, established a higher camp somewhere below the peak. Chulu West and Chulu Central are best accessed from a base camp situated in a small valley north of Manang off the main trail to the Thorong La. Some of the best views of these peaks can be had from that pass. When climbing these peaks, be prepared for steep scree to col a 4,900 m. North of the col ascend snow slopes for 200 meters to a rock band at 5,100 m. Climb this difficult rock band to 5,450 m., cross onto a snow plateau at 5,530m. and follow the progressively narrowing ridge to the summit (Chulu West). 

Both Chulu West and East peaks are part of the Manang Himal, which are quite rightly included in the larger Damodar Himal, the eastern limit of which runs south from Chako and Peak 6687 in a north-to-south direction along the Hunlung Khola, Nar Khola and Phu Khola. To the south it is bounded by the Marsyangdi Khola and the Mesokanta La. There exists considerable confusion with regard to the name and location of the Chulu peaks and what summit actually constitutes Chulu West and Chulu East, since it is soon becomes apparent to anyone that has climbed in the range that several other summits close by, which are actually part of the Chulu massif, are not indicated on present maps of the area. For the sake of clarification, four summits can be included in the Chulu group, two of which are possible on the permit for Chulu West and two on the Chulu East permit.  

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Trip Difficulty: Difficult

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