It’s hard to generalize about
the climate of a country ranging in elevation from near
sea level to Mount Everest. About the only thing that
can be said is that all but a few parts of Nepal are governed
by the same monsoon pattern with temperatures varying
according to elevation.
Probably half of all tourists visit Nepal in the autumn
(October to November), and for good reasons. The weather
is clear and dry, and temperatures aren’t too cold
in the high country or too hot in the Tarai. With the
air washed clean by the monsoon rains, the mountains are
at their most visible, making this the most popular time
for trekking. Two major festivals also fall during this
season.
In winter (December and January), the snow line descends
to 2000 and 3000m, and though it never snows in Kathmandu,
the "mists of Indra" make the capital feel cold
and clammy. Most travelers head down into India, leaving
the trekking routes and guest houses fairly quiet - too
quiet, sometimes, as many restaurants pare down their
menus for the season.
Spring (February to mid-April) brings warmer temperatures,
longer days, weddings and more festivals. The rhododendrons
are in bloom in the hills towards the end of this period,
and in the Tarai the thatch has been cut, making this
the best time for viewing wildlife. The one factor that
keeps people away is a disappointing haze that obscures
the mountains from lower elevations, though it’s
usually possible to trek above it.
The pre-monsoon (mid-April to early June) is stifling
at lower elevations, and dusty wind squalls are common.
Trek high, where the temperatures are more tolerable.
Nepalese welcome the monsoon (June to September), which
breaks the enervating monotony of the previous months,
and makes the fields come alive with rushing water and
green shoots. The rains rinse and renew the land. This
can be a fascinating time to visit, when Nepal is at its
most Nepali, but there are many drawbacks, mountain views
are rare, leeches come out in force along the mid-elevation
trekking routes, roads wash out, flights get cancelled.
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